Publications

Delving beneath the superficiality of changing fashion trends are deeper layers of meaning related to changing social needs or fresh insights and concepts. Since the start in 2002 the modelectoraat published several books on fashion from out different scientific approaches as semiotics, philosophy, anthropology, visual culture and (art) history.

Monograph: Fong Leng

Fong-Leng is the fifth in a series of books focusing on Dutch fashion designers who have played a crucial role in the development of Dutch as well as international fashion. Although the work of Fong-Leng certainly had an international aura, her merit mainly lays in the fact that she made the Netherlands fashion-conscious. For the first time there was a realisation that the Netherlands, too, could bring forth idiosyncratic and creative fashion talent. When Barry Brun, her indispensable right-hand man, started teaching design in the department of fashion at the ArtEZ Institute for the Arts in Arnhem in the Eighties, something of Fong-Leng’s mentality was passed on via him to a younger generation. Viktor & Rolf, Saskia van Drimmelen, Michiel Keuper and Francisco van Benthum were all taught by him. Later they would say on several occasions in press interviews that they felt inspired by Fong-Leng. In their 2003 Flowers summer collection, Viktor & Rolf introduced a series of floral creations that were clearly inspired by Fong-Leng. That they were also presented by dancing Mathilde Willink look-alikes made it clear that the whole thing was an ode to Fong-Leng.

Author: Karin Schacknat
Editors: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publishers: ArtEZ Press/d'jonge Hond
Publication date: January 2010
Paperback
12,2 x 16,4 cm
144 pages
100 full-colour illustrations
Design: Mariola Lopez
Price: 14,95

Monograph: Oilily

An unconventional business instinct and a unique design mentality:
that was what Willem and Marieke Olsthoorn brought to Oilily, the
very first brand of children's clothing that put its focus on the world
of the child and no longer dressed them up as small adults. Right
from the start, Oilily refused to be led by trends or competitive prices.
Willem and Marieke only made things that they themselves found
attractive. Oilily's preference for the playful use of colourful fabrics
was also an expression of our own Dutch clothing tradition.
In the early years in particular, Marieke Olsthoorn was inspired
by the colourful traditional costumes worn in the villages around  the IJsselmeer. The way the people
of Spakenburg,Hindeloopen and Volendam combined various kinds of colourful Indian chintz
- once imported by the Dutch East India Company - into a profusion of combinations is clearly evident in the Oilily style.

Author: Jos Arts
Editors: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publishers: ArtEZ Press/d'jonge Hond
Publication date: January 2010
Paperback
12,2 x 16,4 cm
144 pages
100 full-colour illustrations
Design: Mariola Lopez
Price: 14,95



Fashion and Imagination. About Clothes and Art

Fashion is one of the most important visual phenomena of our time. Since the 1960s the boundaries between fashion and art have become increasingly blurred, while fashion has also become a medium for expressing concepts, ideas and political ideals. The results of the interaction between fashion and art appeal to the imagination. In a world in which uniformity reigns supreme, fashion and art provide the most stimulating, the most unexpected and the most liberating visual culture in history.

Fashion and Imagination recounts in words and images fashion’s exciting relationship with photography, film, visual art, performance art, architecture and literature.



Authors: Jos Arts e.a.
Editors: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publication date: september 2009
ca. 300 full-colour illustrations
416 pages
Design: Roger Willems, Amsterdam
ISBN 978-90-89101-40-2 (English)
ISBN 978-90-89101-34-1 (Dutch)
Price 39,95
Publisher: d'Jonge Hond / ArtEZ Press




The Art of Fashion: installing Allusions

Contemporary fashion designers increasingly work in the field of the visual arts and so influence the art world. The exhibition The Art of Fashion: Installing Allusions focuses on the dynamic boundary between fashion and art. At the heart of the exhibition are exclusive new works by five of the world’s leading fashion designers. Specially for the exhibition The H+F Fashion on the Edge Foundation has invited Viktor & Rolf, Naomi Filmer, Hussein Chalayan, Anna-Nicole Ziesche and Walter Van Beirendonck to create new works that abandon the principle of wearable clothing. The themes suggested by these commissioned works are explored in more than fifty objects by an international group of artists and designers who work in a similar manner.


Authors: José Teunissen, Judith Clark, Jos Arts, Catalijne de Munck
Editors: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publication date: september 2009
Swiss binding
21,9 x 29,5 cm
112 pages
ca. 100 full-colour illustrations
Design: Roger Willems
ISBN 978-90-6918-240-7 (Nederlandse editie)
ISBN 978-90-6918-241-4 (Engelse editie)
Price 17,50
Publisher: Museum Boymans Van Beuningen



Monograph: Jan Jansen

Open any book about shoes, and there is a big chance that you will come across one of Jan Jansen’s shoes. His name figures among such celebrities as Roger Vivier and Salvatore Ferragamo on the list of leading international shoe designers. His fame has spread so far that he has been a visiting professor at Bunka Fashion College in Japan for a number of years. And yet Jan Jansen has not built up a worldwide empire. In fact he still always works in the same way as when he began. He only designs the shoes that he really wants to make himself and sells them in small editions. What concerns him is the relationship between last, material and form, which results in exquisite and innovative shoes. The only criterium he takes seriously is that his shoes are good to walk in, but otherwise he sees them mainly as objects that have to answer to an ultimate form and beauty.

Author: Jos Arts
Editor: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publisher: d’jonge Hond/ArtEZ press
Publication date: february 2009
Paperback
12,2 x16,4 cm
93 pages
100 full-colour illustrations
Design: Mariola Lopez
ISBN: English
Price 14,95
Publisher: d’jonge Hond, ArtEZ Press



No Reference - Christophe Coppens

In 2007 the Belgian accessory designer Christophe Coppens won the first H + F Fashion on the Edge Award: a price of 20.000 euro initiated by the art collector Han Nefkens. The results of the commission was to be seen at Platform 21 in Amsterdam. www.platform21.nl  This book was made in cooperation with H + F fashion on the Edge and ArtEZ press and gives insight in the background of collector Han Nefkens and the career of Christophe Coppens till now.




Author:Pieter van Bogaert
Publisher: d’jonge Hond/ArtEZ press
Publication date: January 2009
paperback
16,8 x 23,7 cm
128 pages
80 full-colour illustraties
ISBN 978-90-89100-62-7
price € 22,50



Monograph: Alexander van Slobbe

Alexander van Slobbe is the first in a series of books about Dutch fashion designers who have played a crucial role in the development of Dutch as well as international fashion. Alexander van Slobbe was one of the first Dutch designers that around 1194 build up an international reputation as Dutch Modernist with his label Orson & Bodil. His man’s label SO was a big success in Japan.

This series of books is intended to chart the history of Dutch fashion and design. What has been the influence of Dutch designers on the history of international fashion design? And what exactly have they contributed to Dutch fashion culture? How have they brought their discipline further?

Archival research and interviews with designers and others involved contributed to a well-documented background story.

Author: Nanda van den Berg
Editor: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publisher: d’jonge Hond/ArtEZ press
Publication date: may 2008
Paperback
12,2 x16,4 cm
144 pages
100 full-colour illustrations
Design: Mariola Lopez
ISBN: English
Price 14,95

Marlies Dekkers

Marlies Dekkers is the second in a series of books about Dutch fashion designers who have played a crucial role in the development of Dutch as well as international fashion. What is special about Marlies Dekkers is not only her innovative ideas about lingerie but also the subtle way in which she manages to create a strong, independent, post-feminist woman. This series of books is intended to chart the history of Dutch fashion and design. What has been the influence of Dutch designers on the history of international fashion design? And what exactly have they contributed to Dutch fashion culture? How have they brought their discipline further? Archival research and interviews with designers and others involved contributed to a well-documented background story.

Author: Jos Arts
Editor: José Teunissen, Jan Brand
Publisher: d’jonge Hond/ArtEZ press
Publication date: may 2008
Paperback
12,2 x16,4 cm
144 pages
80 full-colour illustrations
Design: Mariola Lopez
ISBN: English 978 90 89100 42 9
Price 14,95

Fashion & Accessories

Why are accessories so important in the fashion world today? Ever since Prada launched the Pocone backpack in 1987 and Tom Ford transformed the classical ‘Gucci’ bag label into a luxury fashion brand, it’s been impossible to imagine the collections of the major fashion houses without accessories and accessory campaigns. This live topic constitutes the basic theme of this book. What significance do accessories have in relation to fashion? How do accessories reflect the culture of our time? And in what way do they represent or illustrate a cultural shift in the perception of fashion? This book also sketches out a number of developments in the history of the fashion accessory and its typologies, and shows that themes and design principles from movements such as Surrealism, Modernism, the carnivalesque and Postmodernism keep recurring in accessory design.

Authors: Els de Baan, Nanda van den Berg, Judith Donath, Martine Elzingre, Agnes Gomes-Koizumi, Georgette Koning, Gilles Lipovetsky, Christine M. Liu, Luca Marchetti, Arjen Mulder, Birgit Richard, Karin Schacknat, Anneke Smelik, José Teunissen, Marjan Unger, Virginie Viallon, Minke Vos

For the Spanish translation see: http://www.agapea.com/libros/Moda-y-accesorios-isbn-8425222915-i.htm

Editors: Jan Brand, José Teunissen
Publisher: Terra/ArtEZ press
Publication date: May 2007
Flexibound
20 x 27 cm
216 pages
More than 400 full-colour illustrations
Design: Roger Willems, Amsterdam

The Power of Fashion. About design and meaning

Fashion encompasses more than the latest skirt length, the newest colours or the most up-to-date accessories. Image, individuality, group identity and countless other facets also play a role. And fashion is no longer only prescribed by the catwalk - what happens on the street is just as important. Fashion is a mirror of society and reveals its social connections. The Power of Fashion uses word and image to explain how fashion is interwoven into every facet of society. A thread running through the book is formed by prominent designers, a colourful, innovative sampling of what fashion now has to offer.

Authors: Rosetta Brooks, Patrizia Calefato, Ginger Gregg Duggan, Akiko Fukai, Henk Hoeks, Erik de Kuyper, Dirk Lauwaert, Ulrich Lehmann, Gilles Lipovetsky, Ted Polhemus, Jack Post, Karin Schacknat, Anneke Smelik, José Teunissen, Chris Townsend, Barbara Vinken

editors: Jan Brand, José Teunissen
Publication date: January 2006
Flexibound
17 x 24 cm
416 pages
Ca. 160 full-colour illustrations and ca. 190 black/white illustrations
Design: Roger Willems, Amsterdam
NUR: 452
ISBN: 90 5897 510
ISBN English edition: 90 5897 511 8
Price: € 39,95
Published in collaboration with Uitgeverij Terra and ArtEZ press

Mode in Nederland

The first book – written in Dutch - on the recent history of Dutch Fashion. In Holland the fashion industry developed quite late in the early twenty century. This history is written in 110 lemma’s dedicated to the most important labels, companies designers and department stores that helped the Dutch creating a fashion culture in Holland: with Viktor & Rolf, Alexander van Slobbe, Marlies Dekkers, Jan Jansen, Piet Paris and companies Gaastra, G-Star, Oilily en Mexx.

Authors: Karin Schacknat, Nanda van den Berg, Jos Arts, Gert Jonkers, Bregje Lampe, Els de Baan en José Teunissen.

Editor: José Teunissen
Publication date: Juni 2006
Paperback
170x 240
240 pagina’s
Design: Brigitte Slangen
NUR: 452
ISBN:978-905897-468-6
Price: 29,95

Global Fashion, Local Tradition

Paris is not longer the capital of fashion. Every region and country has its own Fashion Weeks. Due to internet and modern media small labels easily get access to a world audience. The result is that the western fashion has lost its hegemony. New labels of all parts in the world are giving their fashion identity by using their own roots, crafts and culture.

Authors: Suzannah Frankel, Sumati Nagrath, Sandra Niessen, Ted Polhemus, Roy Villevoye
Editors: Jan Brand, José Teunissen

Publication date: September 2005
Design: Chantal Hendriksen
Paperback
210x 270 cm
200 pages
2e edition
NUR: 452
ISBN: English edition: 978-90-5897-372-6
ISBN: 90 5897 371 9
Price: € 34,95
Published in collaboration with Uitgeverij Terra and ArtEZ press

The Ideal Woman

This book focuses on ‘The ideal woman’ and poses the question what exactly is the function of the woman as a role model in contemporary fashion. Is she still the designer’s all-determining muse and an ultimate ideal image? This no longer appears the case.

Authors: Valerie Steele, Bazon Brock, Karin Schacknat, Pauline Terrreehorst, José Teunissen
Editors: Jan Brand, José Teunissen
Publication date: Januari 2004
paperback
170 x 240
128 pages
Ca. 100 full-colour illustrations
Design: Chantal Hendriksen, werkplaats Typografie
ISBN English edition: 90 5875 136 8
price: € 20,95
Sun publishers